The Girovago

Best operative Milan

One of the tricks that you soon learn in Milan, usually after you realize that you've spent half you wages on eating out, is that there is really no need to do dinner in this city. That's not to say that, girls, you should turn down dinner dates or that, guys, you shouldn't ask. But if you find yourself making you way home on the metro and the odors emanating from the clothes of the mama next to you remind you that you haven't had time to restock you fridge (don't worry empty fridges are sooo Milan) head for an aperitivo.

Aperitvo is often referered to as the Italian happy hour but instead of just drinks it includes a buffet of food which operates pretty much on an 'eat as much as your shame permits' basis. If you choose your venue wisely you can easily avoid the need to dine in restaurants.

Shu, in Via Molino delle Armi 30, is supposed to be one of the fashionable bars in Milan and it's always full of worryingly young Eastern European models usually accompanied by slick-haired men old enough to be their (grand)daddys. But be warned the decor is nasty. Its all black with too many mirrors, dated lighting and the ubiquitous Philippe Starck for Kartell perspex chairs.

Once you get over the 'Home Front' decor, and trust me it will take a while, allow your eyes to feast on the spectacularly abundant aperitivo. From six til nine'ish there's mountains of food that spreads across two black tableclothed tables. Caprese salads, rice salads, gently steamed broccoli, mini pizzas pasta, seafood... the list is to die for and for the price of a cocktail (6 euro during happy hour) its all yours!

Another cool place to check out is Bento Bar, in Corso Garibaldi 104, is another cool place to pick up a good aperitivo. Tuna and salmon sushi, sashimi, sugar snaps, salads and focaccias are there waiting for you to pile them into the cute red boxes that double as plates. The cocktails aren't the best in Milan and I'd recommend that you stay clear of them during Happy Hour, even if they are only 6 euro as they tend to taste a little bit watered down.

Rita, in Via Angelo Fumagalli 1, is a gorgous little bar of Naviglio Grande and round the corner from the hell hole where I worked during my first six months in Milan. Despite still suffering post traumatic stress disorder as a result of my time at ??? Rita remains one of my favourite bars for aperitivo. Although its tiny in the warmer months it opens up onto the pavement facing the Hotel Nikken and has a very continental vibe. The cocktails are to die for and are mixed and recommended with great care and affection. Aperitivo is far from abundant but the little morsels of haute cuisine which are brought to your table by the chef are sublime.

posted by Bella Figura @ 9:03 pm